Oct 15, Day 10: Conques to Livinhac-le-Haut (26.4 km)

Ready for day 10.
Breakfast was served back in the dining room of the abbey.  It was simple: bread, fromage blanc (similar to yogurt), butter, and coffee with milk.  We sat next to a couple of Americans who had been pilgrims in Spain along the Camino Frances, but who were travelling by bus and train through this section of France.  

René over the Dordou River
We walked straight downhill to the Rivière Dordou, over a historical bridge, and then straight uphill out of Conques.  On the way up the hill we met a couple from Mexico and Tilman passed us.  As we got to the top of the hill it began raining and so we put on windbreakers and ponchos.

Hot chocolate to warm us.
We had decided in the morning to take the route which went by Noailhac (GR65 alternate) .  Boy were we glad we did as it allowed us to stop in the village for a hot drink at the bar.  We got out of the wind and shook off the rain, and enjoyed a break inside.  

Susan's happy to be out of the wind and rain.

By mid-day it had stopped raining, but it was still windy and cold.  About halfway we found a little pilgrim shelter with picnic tables, some with shelter.  It was so good to sit at a table out of the rain and eat a meal.  We had ordered lunch from the abbey, as there were no lunch supplies in Conques. We ate bread, cheese, paté, apple, cookies, canned tuna salad, and a granola bar.

Livinhac-le-Haut a few minutes before a downpour

We knew that we still had quite a distance to go in the afternoon as we had planned on walking into Decazeville, then up to Livinhac-le-Haut.  There was quite a steep hike down to Decazeville.  Just off the hiking trail was a supermarket where we purchased supper food: pasta, lardons, a can of tomatoes, a jar spinach, an onion, olives with anchovies, red wine and soup.  We then had a bracing climb out of the city and then back down and up into Livinhac-le-Haut.  We checked into the little gîte which was upstairs from a boucherie.  It had five rooms and a communal kitchen and dining room.

We showered, changed, washed some items and began supper preparations.  There was a restaurant open in town, but we had decided to make use of the kitchen.  As were were preparing the couple from Mexico we met in the morning arrived.  They looked exhausted and in pain.  They were trying to book a luggage service to carry their bags to their next destination, but they were unable to find anything as it was so late in the season.  We assumed that it was their first time walking, but we found out later that they had walked the Camino Frances in Spain and were finding the walk through France much more difficult.

We were glad to be eating in and resting for the evening.  The bottle of wine helped!



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